Tiffany

The Greek word “amethystos” may be translated as “not drunken”. Amethyst was considered to be a strong antidote against drunkenness, which is why wine goblets were often carved from it. In Greek mythology, Dionysus, the god of intoxication, was pursuing a maiden named Amethystos, who refused his affections. Amethystos prayed to the gods to remain chaste, which the goddess. Artemis granted and transformed her into a white stone. Humbled by Amethystos’s desire to remain chaste, Dionysus poured wine over the stone as an offering, dyeing the crystals purple.

Variations of the story include that Dionysus had been insulted by a mortal and swore to slay the next mortal who crossed his path, creating fierce tigers to carry out his wrath. The mortal turned out to be a beautiful young woman, Amethystos, who was on her way to pay tribute to Artemis. Her life is spared by Artemis, who transformed the maiden into a statue of pure crystalline quartz to protect her from the brutal claws. Dionysus wept tears of wine in remorse for his action at the sight of the beautiful statue. The god’s tears then stained the quartz purple. Another variation involves the goddess Thes presenting Dionysus with the amethyst stone to preserve the wine-drinker’s sanity.

This Tiffany Blue Box Charm with enamel finish in sterling silver is $150. It is also available on a sterling silver bracelet and chain.

Share This

Amethyst was used as a gemstone by the ancient Egyptians and was largely employed in antiquity for intaglios. The Greeks believed amethyst gems could prevent intoxication, while medieval European soldiers wore amethyst amulets as protection in battle. Beads of amethyst were found in Anglo-Saxon graves in England. A huge geode, or “amethyst-grotto”, from near Santa Cruz in southern Brazil was exhibited at the Dusseldorf, Germany Exhibition of 1992. amethyst is the traditional birthstone for February.

Traditionally included in the cardinal, or most valuable, gemstones, amethyst has lost much of its value due to the discovery of extensive deposits in locations such asBrazil. The highest grade amethyst (called “Deep Russian”) is exceptionally rare and therefore its value is dependent on the demand of collectors when one is found. It is however still orders of magnitude lower than the highest grade sapphires or rubies.

This Sugar and Spice Charm with pink enamel finish in sterling silver comes from Tiffany. It is available on a sterling silver chain, bracelet or necklace. This charm is $150.

Share This

Amethyst is composed of an irregular superposition of alternate lamellae of right-handed and left-handed quartz. It has been shown that this structure may be due to mechanical stresses. Because it has a hardness of seven on the Mohs scale, amethyst is suitable for use in jewelry.

Amethyst occurs in primary hues from a light pinkish violet to deep purple. Amethyst may exhibit one or both secondary hues, red and blue. The ideal grade is called “Deep Siberian” and has a primary purple hue of around 75-80 percent, 15-20 percent blue and (depending on the light source) red secondary hues.

This Tiffany charm is made with an emerald, an amethyst, sapphire and round brilliant diamonds in platinum. Your own sparkling style with a fun splash of color. Emerald, carat total weight .04; amethyst, carat total weight .22; sapphires, carat total weight .17; round brilliant diamonds, carat total weight .02. It is $1,150.

Share This

Synthetic amethyst is made to imitate the best quality amethyst. Its chemical and physical properties are so similar to that of natural amethyst that it can not be differentiated with absolute certainty without advanced gemological testing (which is often cost-prohibitive). There is one test based on “Brazil law twinning” (a form of quartz twinning where right and left hand quartz structures are combined in a single crystal) which can be used to identify synthetic amethyst rather easily. In theory however it is possible to create this material synthetically as well, but this type is not available in large quantities in the market.

This Flower Basket Charm with diamonds and an amethyst in platinum is from Tiffany Charm. If you get it, you will have your own sparkling style with a fun splash of color. Cabochon amethyst, carat total weight .47; round brilliant diamonds, carat total weight .20. It is $2,050.

Share This

In the 20^th century, the color of amethyst was attributed to the presence of manganese. However, since it is capable of being greatly altered and even diacharged by heat, the color was believed by some authorities to be from an organic source. Ferric thiocyanate was suggested, and sulfur was said to have been detected in the mineral.

More recent work has shown that anethysts’ coloration is due t ferric iron impurities. Further study has shown a complex interplay of iron and aluminium is responsible for the color.

On exposure to heat, anethyst generally becomes yellow, and much of the citrine, cairngorm, or yellow quartz of jewelry is said to be merely “burnt amethyst”. Veins of amethystine quartz are apt to lose their color on the exposed outcrop.

This horseshoe charm is made with 12 carat weight cabochon amethyst, 0.08 weight carat square emeralds, 0.18 carat weight round brilliant diamonds and platinum and comes from Tiffany Charms. It is $1,550.

Share This

Like cloisonné enamelling,  plique-à-jour begins with a lattice of thin metal bands.  The cloisons between the metal bands are filled with transparent enamels,  but,  unlike cloisonné,  there is no metal backing.  When completed a plique-à-jour jewel transmits sunlight like a miniature stained glass window.  Particularly stunning examples of plique-à-jour work were created by Russian masters during the mid-1800’s and the jewelers of the Art Nouveau period.

The above brilliant light green of Schlumberger’s paillonné enamel is exceptional. Bracelet in 18k gold with light green enamel. $27,000

The middle brilliant rose of Schlumberger’s paillonné enamel is exceptional. Bracelet in 18k gold with rose enamel. $22,000

The below brilliant red of Schlumberger’s paillonné enamel is exceptional. Bracelet in 18k gold with red enamel and diamonds. $44,000

Share This

Plique-à-jour is one of the most beautiful and most difficult enamelling techniques.  The results of plique-à-jour enamelling are stunning.  Imagine the interior of a 13th century cathedral on a bright,  sunny day,  as warm sunlight streams through the stained glass windows.  The sunlight and windows create a brilliant rainbow of intense colors.  If you captured this beautiful effect in a small jewel,  you would have a plique-à-jour enamel.

This brilliant dark blue of Schlumberger’s paillonné ename is exceptional. This bracelet in 18k gold with dark blue enamel is very beautiful. It is $27,000.(above)

the middle one is brilliant red of Schlumberger’s paillonné enamel is exceptional. Bracelet in 18k gold with red enamel. It is $27,000.

And the below brilliant white of Schlumberger’s paillonné enamel is exceptional. Bracelet in 18k gold with white enamel. It is $27,000.

Share This

Guilloché, from the French for engine turning, is the art of engraving intricate circular patterns onto a metal surface. (Remember the toy Spirograph, that was engine turning with paper and pencil). In guilloché enamelling an engine-turned surface is painted with a translucent enamel. The color of the enamel pools and collects in the engraved lines, heightening the pattern and giving it depth and a sculpture-like appearance. Some of the finest examples of guilloché enamelling were produced in the workshops of the Russian jeweler Karl Fabergé. Beautiful examples of engine turning can also be found on many Victorian jewels and pocket watches. 

The brilliant light green of Schlumberger’s paillonné enamel is exceptional. Bracelet in 18k gold with light green enamel. $22,000.(Above)

The brilliant light blue of Schlumberger’s paillonné enamel is exceptional. Bracelet in 18k gold with light blue enamel. $22,000. (Middle)

The brilliant white of Schlumberger’s paillonné enamel is exceptional. Bracelet in 18k gold with white enamel. $22,000. (Below)

Share This

Cloisonné is the oldest method of enamelling.  First practiced by the ancient Egyptians,  cloisonné enamelling has been embraced by many ancient and modern cultures.  First,  a network of “cloisons” (cells or compartments) is formed by attaching thin metal wires to a metal surface,  like the top of a jewel.  Crushed glass enamels of various colors and optical properties are then placed in the various cells.  Through repeated application of the enamels,  firing and polishing,  the cloisons are filled with the jewel-like enamels.  The result is an enamelled jewel decorated with a pattern of gem-like colors separated by polished metal wires.

The dark blue of Schlumberger’s paillonné enamel is exceptional. Bracelet in 18k gold with dark blue enamel. It is $27,000.

The brilliant yellow of Schlumberger’s paillonné enamel is exceptional. Bracelet in 18k gold with yellow enamel. $27,000.

The brilliant red of Schlumberger’s paillonné enamel is exceptional. Bracelet in 18k gold with red enamel. $27,000.

Share This

Enamelling is the ancient and difficult art of creating beautiful images with finely crushed glass powders.  Often the enamelist’s “canvas” is a jewel or objet d’art.  The enamelist “paints” a surface of the jewel with the crushed glass and,  through repeated applications and firings,  creates wonderful miniature works of art.  Although the first known enamels were created in ancient Egypt (circa 1500 BC),  the art of painting in glass has been practiced throughout the centuries.

Over time the art of the enameller evolved with changes in history,  fashion and available technologies.  Today many of the historical techniques are being revived by contemporary jewelry designers and artisans.  Three of the most beautiful enamelling techniques are:  cloisonné,  guilloché and plique-à-jour.  A brief review of each of these schools of enamelling follows.

This brilliant blue of Schlumberger’s paillonne enamel is exceptional. This pair of earrings in 18k gold with blue enamel is for pierced ears. It is $8,800.

And this is Jean Schlumberger’s rendition of an “X”, the popular symbol of love. This ring is in 18k gold with blue enamel and round brilliant diamonds in platinum. It is $4,900.

Share This