Tiffany

Platinum occurs naturally in the alluvial sands of various rivers, though there is little evidence of its use by ancient peoples. However, the metal was used by pre-Columbian Americans near modern-day Esmeraldas, Ecuador to produce artifacts of a white gold-platinum alloy. The first European reference to platinum appears in 1557 in the writings of the Italian humanist Julius Caesar Scaliger as a description of an unknown noble metal found between Darien and Mexico, which no fire nor any Spanish artifice has yet been able to liquefy. The alchemical symbol for platinum (shown above) was made by joining the symbols of silver and gold.

In 1741, Charles Wood, a British metallurgist, found various samples of Columbian platinum in Jamaica, which he sent to William Brownring for further investigation. Antonio Ulloa, also credited with the discovery of platinum, returned to Spain from the French Geodesic Mission in 1746 after having been there for eight years. His historical account of the expedition included a description of platinum as being neither separable nor calcinable. Ulloa also anticipated the discovery of platinum mines. After publishing the report in 1748, Ulloa did not continue to investigate the new metal. In 1758, he was sent to superintend mercury mining operations in Huancavelica.

In an exemplary tribute to fine craftsmanship, a floral motif of diamonds forms a wreath around stunning grossularite. Drop earrings with oval grossularites and pear-shaped and round brilliant diamonds in platinum, for pierced ears. Let’s view the specification of this diamond drop earrings in platinum valued $32,500: Oval grossularites, carat total weight 7.36; pear-shaped diamonds, carat total weight 1.72; round brilliant diamonds, carat total weight .79.

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A highly sought after variety of gem garnet is the fine green Grossular garnet from Kenya and Tanzania called tsavorite. This garnet was discovered in the 1960s in the Tsavo area of Kenya, from which the gem takes its name.

Viluite is a variety name of grossular, that is not a recognized mineral species. It is usually olive green though sometimes brownish or reddish, brought about by impurities in the crystal. Viluite is found associated with and is similar in appearance to vesuvianite, and there is confusion in terminology as viluite has long been used as a synonym for wiluite, a sorosilicate of the vesuvianite group. This confusion in nomenclature dates back to James Dwight Dana. It comes from the Vilyuy river area in Siberia.

Grossular is known by many other names, and also some misnomers; colophonite - coarse granules of garnet, ernite, gooseberry-garnet - light green colored and translucent,  kalkthongranat, kanelstein, olyntholite/olytholite, pechgranat, romanzovite, and tellemarkite. Misnomers include; South African jade, garnet jade, Transvaal jade, and African jade.

This is Jean Schlumberger’s necklace of sapphires, emeralds and diamonds of new collection 2009.

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From at least the fourth century BC, India traded in wholesale diamonds, taxed them and exported them. There had long been trade in diamonds between India and Babylon, Mesopotamia, Syria, Israel, Egypt, Ceylon, and Arabian countries. Diamonds that reached the western part of the Roman Empire were prized for their magical powers, but Rome also re-exported the diamonds to China as tool bits set in iron holders for cutting jade and drilling pearls during the first five centuries AD. There were no superstitions about diamonds in China to deny this use and, even as tools, they were still regarded as presents fit for kings, according to the Chinese philosopher Lao-tse in the first century AD.

The Arabs and Persians monopolized trade between the Roman Empire and East Asia and, during the middle ages, between Europe and East Asia until the sea route to India was discovered. It appears that they retained for themselves many of the finest diamonds from India and sold the poorer and smaller ones. The Arab, Teifaschius, issued the earliest diamond price list ever discovered in the twelfth century.

The art of paillonné enameling, laying enamel over gold leaves, was revived and perfected on the graceful curves of this whimsical design. Brooch with round brilliant diamonds, cabochon pink sapphires and blue enamel in 18k gold and platinum. $105,000

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Diamond’s effect on history has been mainly because they are possibly the greatest concentrated form wealth which is negotiable and redeemable almost anywhere. Diamonds have played a part in many upheavals and, during recent world wars, paid the way for the escape of refugees from totalitarian tyrannies.

The Koh-i-Nur Diamond, or Mountain of Light, has longest history of all famous diamonds, as it was known to be in the possession of the Rajahs of Malwa as long ago as 1304. The 410-carat Regent Diamond played a part in the French Revolution. It was one of the last big diamonds to be found in India, in 1701. The Hope Diamond, to which stories of tragedy has become attached, is supposed to have been part of the famous Blue Tavernier diamond brought to Europe by the French traveler Jean Baptiste Tavernier.

Tiffany’s Jean Schlumberger loved to design whimsical settings for fabulous stones. Flower Top ear clips in 18k gold with pink spinels and diamonds set in platinum.

Pear-shaped pink spinels, carat total weight 27.80; round brilliant diamonds, carat total weight 1.01. $145,000

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The history of wearing diamond jewelry is as ancient a custom as any on record. Diamonds appeared in early history to be of primary importance, after the seeking of food and shelter, within societies. It has been assumed that the wearing of diamonds was originally motivated by a desire to remember the spring with its promise of food and warmth, and later in history, the diamond became a personal adornment, a symbol of rank and wealth.

Throughout history, rulers wore large diamonds as badges of rank. Diamonds were also convenient “portable” wealth in the early days of India. Most of the historical diamonds that still exist are Indian, and all have eventful and sometimes bloody histories. The French traveler Jean Baptiste Tavernier brought a number of them to Europe.

Truly a Schlumberger design masterpiece, inspired by the plumage of an exotic creature. Necklace of rubies, sapphires and round brilliant diamonds in platinum with 18k gold. 16″ long. Rubies, carat total weight 37.47; sapphires, carat total weight 15.93; round brilliant diamonds, carat total weight 19.50; square diamonds, carat total weight 3.25. $450,000

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During the French Revolution, the Blue Tavernier diamond was stolen and in 1830, Henry Thomas Hope bought a slightly smaller stone of the same color and beauty. It is suspected that the gem known as the Hope Diamond was cut from the Blue Tavernier sometime after the revolution. After Hope died, the diamond passed through a few other hands and each person who owned it lost his or her fortune, including the stone itself. As a result, no one would touch it by the time it went on sale in New York City. It now resides in the Smithsonian Institute in Washington, D.C.

Diamonds come in a variety of colors, from the transparent diamonds that we think of as engagement rings to startling blues to luminescent pinks. They are treasured stones in industry and in jewelry. Fortunately, modern technology can now manufacture sufficient quality diamonds for most necessary industrial uses, but it remains to be seen if it will ever catch up in making gem quality stones. If it does, it’s anyone’s guess whether the diamonds will lose value just as they become widely available.

Delicate butterflies designed with Schlumberger’s signature attention to detail. Clip with oval pink tourmalines, pear-shaped amethysts and round brilliant diamonds in platinum with 18k gold. Oval pink tourmalines, carat total weight 6.30; pear-shaped amethysts, carat total weight 6.74; round brilliant diamonds, carat total weight 1.53. $30,000

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For centuries, people thought that only India was home to diamonds, but when they were found in Brazil around 1726, the industry moved to South America. It was a short-lived dominance, however, as the discovery of (relatively) immense supplies of diamond were found in South Africa in 1867. Since that discovery, the African continent has been the primary supplier of the world’s diamonds. It was also that discovery, which led to the European conquest of the continent during the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.

While almost every cut diamond is a coveted item, some diamonds are of such magnitude or beauty that they have captured the hearts and imaginations of countless people. Among these is the Star of Africa (also known as Cullinan I), which at 530.2 carats is the largest cut diamond. It was cut from a 3106-carat stone and is now on the Royal Scepter of Great Britain. A great deal of mystery surrounds the Great Mogul, which is the third largest gem quality diamond known, but which’s whereabouts are currently unknown. Named for Shah Jehan (who built the Taj Mahal), it disappeared in the twentieth century. The inaptly named Hope Diamond is also the subject of much controversy.

An exquisite green tourmaline is enveloped in an embrace of brilliant diamonds. Ring with an oval green tourmaline and round brilliant diamonds in platinum. Oval green tourmaline, carat total weight 4.32; round brilliant diamonds, carat total weight .80. $22,500

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We learn from the TV or book that diamonds are not only forever, but they are the symbol of love and commitment. Western popular culture has idolized the diamond for its incredible beauty and its reminder of the first bloom of love. But as you stare deep into the eyes of your lover and think fondly of diamond engagement rings and sparkling facets, can you actually remember when the diamond became that symbol of everlasting affection? Did you ever even know?
The first diamond engagement ring known was given by Maximilian I, Hapsburg Archduke of Austria and Holy Roman Emperor. He gave it to his fiancée, Mary, the heiress to the Dukes of Burgundy (Maximilian was very intelligent and managed to marry a great deal of land and wealth into the family through his own engagement and that of his relatives-the diamond was a small price to pay).

So what were diamonds used for between then and the time since they were first unearthed about 4000 years ago in India? Frankly, very little. Diamonds were relatively insignificant until Louis de Berqueur learned to cut facets into them in 1456. Once they were fashionable, they became sought after pieces of jewelry and also began to be used commercially. As diamond is the hardest substance known to man, its manufacturing uses are practically limitless.

This Schlumberger design pairs beautifully matched tsavorites with a sapphire of extraordinary size and precise cut. Yellow gold, a hallmark of Schlumberger’s designs, is subtly combined with platinum for unexpected yet stunning contrast. Ring with an emerald-cut sapphire, tsavorites and round brilliant diamonds in platinum and 18k gold. Emerald-cut sapphire, carat total weight 10.00; round tsavorites, carat total weight 1.29; round brilliant diamonds, carat total weight .43. $85,000

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The Greek word “Adamas ” meaning unconquerable and indestructible is the root world of diamond. Diamonds have been sought the world over, fought over, worshipped and used to cast love spells.

For the last 3000 to 4000 years, diamonds have held special magic for Kings, Queens and their sujects. Diamonds have stood for wealth, power, love, spirit and magical powers. Kings in olden days would wear into battle heavy leather breast plates studded with diamonds and other precious stones. It was believed that diamonds were fragments of starts and the teardrops of the Gods. The diamonds possessed magical qualities of the Gods and held powers far beyond the understanding of the common man. Because of these beliefs, the warriors stayed clear of the Kings and others who were fortunate to have the magical diamonds in their breast plates.

Until the 15^th Century only Kings wore diamonds as a symbol of strength, courage and invincibility. Over the centuries, the diamod acquired its unique status as the ultimate gift of love. It was said that Cupid’s arrows were topped with diamonds that have a magic that nothing else can equal.

So often Jean Schlumberger finds inspiration in nature’s forms. This five leaves brooch in 18k gold with round brilliant diamonds in platinum valus $16,5000.  And the four leaves ring in 18k gold with round brilliant diamonds in platinum is $8,100.

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Throughout history, jewelry and fashion have been closely linked together. It is important to note that each stylish change was a direct reaction to the one that preceded it. Artisan’s understanding of metallurgical properties, gemstone traits, and the technology of their time limited their abilities. Each era must be appreciated within its own unique parameters, rather than compared on a broad acale. Furthermore, the jewelry period do not start and end at distinct pints in time. They often overlap, most poignantly noted at the turn of the 20^th century when the Victorian, Art & Crafts, Art Nouveau, and Edwardian movernments existed concurrently.  

This diverse and distinguished selection of cufflinks is the work of exclusive Tiffany & Co. designer Jean Schlumberger. The 18 karat gold designs include shells with red paillonné enamel and diamonds, textured seeds, umbrellas with blue paillonné enamel, fish with rubies, and umbrellas with green paillonné enamel. Each brings an elegant touch of color and design originality to day and evening wear. Prices from left: $4,550, $2,350, $3,500, $2,700, $3,500. They’re expensive and beautiful. They can not catch one’s eyes at the first sight. But they shows the elegance by the small things.

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